I am the DIY/Fix It-type. Here are my two recent shamisen experiments and my thoughts on the outcomes. These might be just interesting to know; you can try it out (ER instead of using duct tape; for salvaging practice instruments; idea for new designs or methodology; etc.); or to know not to do and avoid. These two instruments were not playable so I had nothing to lose, and now, they have some function again. Also, I am learning skills to build up to working on them more traditionally.
"TYVEK TEST" Shamisen Project.
Body was in pieces: I fixed with typical wood glue, with the wood secured with a ratcheting band clamp (also used for taiko building and repairs).
Reskin idea: using Tyvek mailing envelope. Tyvek is pretty strong, and it is easy to get for free from the U.S. post office or can be reused/repurposed when you get one mailed to you. You need sharp scissors to cut it and get crisp edges. The biggest problem is it too thin and needs more rigidity. So maybe layers of Tyvek or with some extra reinforcement would work better. But on the positive, it has some ability to act as rawhide skin alternative, plus it has strong fibers and water-resistance (to play in the rain) and moisture-control (similar material is used as housewrap during wall construction). It doesn’t have a lot of pliability/stretch, which is good and bad. With better methods like a better stretcher, you could probably get a taut skin, but I had some slack and then wrinkles when I added more sealant (so I learned not to overdo on adhesive). Under the bridge/koma esp. as you play, it could use a lot more rigidity, either by layers of Tyvek or something like a band of thin duct or strapping tape. Still, it can produce sound! From zero to something. Sound is very soft so good for practice or for different voice. I spent very little- Tyvek was free and so was my labor =).
Adhesive alternative: I used clear silicone sealant caulk (which I have used before to patch broken real snakeskin and some rawhide drums with some success). I have not tried Mochiko, but I have tried concentrated Knox gelatin (plain jello), bottled Hide Glue, contact glue, wood glues, polyurethane, epoxy, Crazy Glue. Caulk can’t be rehydrated with water, but it can be removed either through abrasion or chemical caulk removers. Dries a bit fast for me, so I would probably search for something with longer open working time, and fully cures in 24 hours. Caulk works but is better for quick patching. Inexpensive, can buy in stores.
Stretcher: The rig wasn’t really put together formally. On top of an old cabinet for standing height, I stacked 2”x2” square dowels (odaiko/taiko drum bachi material, I turn on a lathe for custom drumsticks), grabbed some braid rope, and tested it out. Tyvek doesn’t stretch much so this wouldn’t replicate rawhide, but it gave me an idea of the work. I tried out shark tarp clips. They are cute, like piranhas… but their jagged, clasping toothiness will probably tear or make marks on rawhide so will add felt or other material. They do work, and you tighten by turning the fin. Taking them off was a little more struggle, so a pair of pliers helps. Some start-up expense, Shark clips cost about $1 each, but many tarp clips are available in stores or online. Adding a S-hook to the Shark’s closed hole loop would help. I can also try other tarp clips, or build clamps later. It was good fumbling with limited open working time. Well, it is for practice! I’ll formally set up a wooden stretcher rig with lumber and properly built and secure. I might also look at the frame of an iron table for another stretcher option.
It was a cheap fix, but more of a trial to test some materials and to get some hands-on learning experience. From broken and no sound to at least this:
Sound clip: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bgscbekdlh2xu2q/tyvek%20test_21%20soundclip.wav?dl=0
Pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/svdziy6c6zhdqhw/AADlf92S5l8HqkGeVR3_3kW4a?dl=0
Video clip of skin: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vob7iaewmdr32w8/tyvek%20test_20%20videoclip.mov?dl=0