The skin on my nagauta shamisen

My shamisen is old and it had 2-3 micro tears on the skin when i got it. Good thing the tears are on the part of the skin that’s adhered to the dou…so it’s really not moving and the bachi isn’t hitting them. So far no problems. But i wanna have this shamisen for as long as i can and i wanna do something with it.

Any ideas on how i can prevent these tears to cause even more damage on the skin?? Thanks so much.

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Tears on the side or tears on the top?

A picture would be helpful

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It’s like this. Theres another one on the back skin

If it’s over the frame of the dou, I would feel comfortable placing a protective bachigawa/tape over that area. I do not think you’d adversely impact the sound.

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What kind of glue should I use?

The kind of glue that works for Bachigawa, and you can find almost everywhere, is glue that is suitable for styrofoam, as it doesn’t have corrosive elements.

Now, this is my perspective on how to repair small tears in Shamisen skin:

However, due to the high tension of Shamisen skin, I would recommend you to make a more extensive protection there. The best glue I know for this tear-prevention repair is Starbond KEG-500 Flexible Medium Thick (Heavy Medium)

This is a superglue intended for applications that are subject to vibration, impact, and some stretch, so it is the best superglue for stretched leather. You will have a visible repair, but it will cause the tear to take much longer to grow, possibly years.

This is a delicate repair, and you should do it carefully, layer by layer, and without accelerator, so the glue has time to penetrate the fibers of the leather. Take the thin tip, apply a very thin layer around the inner edges of the tear part, and wait 10 to 30 minutes for it to dry/cure (superglue takes longer to cure in open air). Apply another thin layer, and wait again. Do it as many times as needed for the tear to close up with glue. Treat every tear according to its size.

Important: If you apply a layer and the glue seems to disappear, leave as it is, and don’t apply more glue on this layer. Wait two times as long for it to dry. If the glue looks like it’s disappearing, it means it is going to the inside of the Dou. Wait longer for it to dry and apply the next layer. Little by little, the gap will reduce, unti you close it with glue.

Try to keep the glue on the inside, and try to not make a pile of glue on the outside. If you do, don’t try to rip it off. You can remove it with #300 sandpaper, using a very small piece, and taking extreme care not to sand the skin around it.

After you close the gap, you can opt to apply a half inch circle of superficial glue around the tear area, so the glue will have a better long term hold of the leather. However, consider that this will make the repair even more visible, which impacts the aesthetics of the Shamisen.

@Brown Can I ask your opinion on this method?

Feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Super helpful. Thank you so much for this! I’m repairing it very soon. One more, is there anything i can do to cover up the yellowing of the skin?

Glad to be of help.

About the yellowing, there is no solution that I am aware at the moment.
To my knowledge, any bleaching solutions would contain either enough moisture, which will soften the skin and cause it to tear or unglue, or it will contain harsh solvents, that will weaken the structural bond of the leather, and cause it to tear.

The only thing I know that can help remove very small spots of very superficial staining, is an eraser (the one you use to erase pencil writing). But even then, an eraser will remove a very very thin layer of superficial leather, and it can cause a weak spot, so I would not fully recommend it. This is mostly used for drums, where the leather is much much thicker, and a removal of a very thin layer is inconsequential.

The best thing you can do is to keep it as is, and preserve it until you are ready to get a new skin applied, hopefully a Hibiki from Bachido, that will last you a very long time.

The yellowing is a natural part of the leather aging - and tends to mean that it’s well past its prime. It will either soon break or (as in my case) merely lose that characteristic crackle.

Small stains can be cleaned, but this sort of discoloration?

Consider it patina.

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Got it. Thank you so much.