So what i found reading through the posts is tirebond hide glue and old brown hide glue. Is their another glue that others have found? I don’t play an instrument but i do build some just as a hobby and i am an accomplished woodworker so when i see glue on a wet surface i get concerned. Will hide glue dry hard before the skin totally drys? I do have Kyle’s book and why don’t you glue the flaps and the flat tops all at the same time. Why only the top and then cut the skin and glue the flaps after the pressure is released? After a get a few questions out of the way I’ll start building my shamisen and post as i go along.
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If you’re glueing natural skins onto your dou, and you aren’t doing it at insanely high tensions for modern style Tsugaru, then regular mochiko (glutinous rice flour) will work. You need to cook the glue until it’s very thick and stretchy but still spreadable when cooled to around body temperature. It takes a bit of practice to get it right (I’m still working on my formula and method/technique and I’ve reskinned a couple dozen shamisen)
But if you go for the modern “rock hard” tightness, you’re very unlikely to succeed as an amateur, even with a long background in woodworking. There’s a reason pros can charge so much.
You might have more luck asking on the discord, by the way.
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Oh! And regarding hide glue! The collagen matrix that it forms for strength seems to have a hard time sticking wood to skin and it’s especially difficult to balance the water levels so that it doesnt shrink too much or over absorb into either part.