Masamune Shamisen Accessory Builds 1 - Koma

Now that Masamune Shamisen is complete (still need to upload the final build pictures), it’s time to start sharing some of my work on the numerous accessories for it! For those who haven’t seen the main shamisen build yet, you can find it here:

https://community.bachido.com/t/masamune-shamisen-build-pushing-the-boundaries-of-shamisen-design/8289

In the thread, I cover a lot about the shamisen (mostly towards the end stages), including the finishing process, as well as the custom damascus hardware, custom sawari, 3D printed itomaki, and neo.

Moving forward, there are still a lot of accessory builds to be explored. This is the first of several threads detailing the various accessories I am actively working on. This particular one will focus on the koma that I make, but I will also start other threads on my bachi, tenjin and doukake covers, and case builds.

To start, I wanted wide variety of koma, not only because it is fun to experiment with different styles and materials, but to see how they affect the tone, and to have a number of options. I also wanted to use a number of unique materials that I have not seen yet for koma. The first set of 5 koma I am working on use a variety of woods also found in the Masamune build, to match and compliment the shamisen. From top to bottom: camatillo, gabon ebony, bubinga/curly maple/australian red mallee burl lamination, australian red mallee burl, and bubinga. I have other variations in the works, but these are the first blanks I cut out to start with.

After some initial rough shaping, here are the resulting koma cut into form to start working.

For the saddles for each koma, I will be looking at a range of materials, and have a few interesting choices and styles lined up to explore. This build is actually continuously ongoing, and I will be experimenting with a number of materials and styles, and adding new koma builds as I go, so lots of updates to come!

2 Likes

Michael,

Those koma are all ready looking pretty cool. I especially like the looks of the ebony one. I think it would look gorgeous with a bone saddle. I can’t wait to see these once they’re finished and am especially interested in hearing the difference in tone they produce.

1 Like

Thanks Brian! I agree that the ebony one would look pretty awesome with bone (or some other hard white material for the saddle). I was going to originally use something else, but a black and white koma would probably be cooler. I already know that the first koma I have made, which looks fantastic and is almost done, doesn’t sound how I would like, but there is always room for adjustments. Especially for koma, I think weight, size, and materials definitely can have a major impact on tone for sure. Only way to find out is trying it out and seeing what happens!

Here is a look at the first koma in the series! This is one that I have been wanting to try first - the camatillo koma to match the fretboard.

After cutting out the blank, the koma is further roughed out, straightening the sides, getting it to proper dimensions, and cutting the saddle slot. For this first style, I decided to do a simple inset saddle, copying the bamboo one I already have.

After the saddle slot is cut out to size (1mm in width), it’s time to add the saddle. I wanted to play around with something quite unconvetional, and stick with the theme to match the fretboard on Masamune, which uses camatillo and a 14k rose gold kamigoma. So, I got a 1mm x 3mm piece of matching 14k rose gold wire (the same one used for the kamigoma) to try out! The wire is gently tapped into place and superglued in.

Next, it’s time to create the opening under the saddle. First, I drill out a number of holes to remove the bulk of material.

After, I carefully file out the remaining wood. At this point it is still pretty crude, but taking shape. The edges at the end of the saddle are also coming together.

Using my standard bamboo koma as a template, I continue to shape the new koma further. At this point it’s looking pretty good already! The sides have been tapered, and the internal cutout has been further refined. You can start to see more of the rose gold saddle showing as it is sanded into shape.

Using a dremel cutoff wheel, I proceed to slot the underside right in the middle, and use some fine needle files to file out the underside of the koma. So far, this is where the koma currently stands:

Now, for a bit of bad news. It appears that I have actually developed a rather nasty contact allergy to camatillo dust. Being a very oily rosewood, it is a known allergen and sensitizer. I have never had allergies before with any woods I have worked with, and even throughout the shamisen build, covered with camatillo dust working on the fretboard I didn’t have issues. However, I have already had two quite severe reactions, both instances lasting almost two weeks, so at this point I’m not sure if I can even finish this first koma. I may be able to, but I will have to really cover up and use a shop vac to suck up all wood dust constantly while I am finishing it up. I would like to finish it, but I’ll need to be really careful. Camatillo is an amazingly hard and dense wood, probably the hardest and densest I have ever used, and has an incredible deep steaked purple grain that apparently does not fade with age like some other purple woods like purpleheart. However, I would strongly advise to take precautions with the dust on this one.

I have already tried it out on my shamisen, and as it is now it definitely needs further work to improve the tone. It is very different compared to the bamboo koma, and I definitely prefer the bamboo one, but I think if I do some fine adjusting it will get much better. I think removing more material and thinning out the edges that contact the skin on the bottom will help, as it is much heavier and more dense than the bamboo one. Still a fun first attempt with koma making!

4 Likes

Hey Michael! It’s been a while, but as always, I have been thoroughly enjoying your pictures and comments. These Koma look great! I haven’t made any of mine. I will after I skin both Dou and get a better idea of what the action will be on them since my saos seem to be a bit too straight even though the angle in relation to the Dou is right on based on Kyle’s book. Anyways, I want to thank you for introducing me to Camatillo (Mexican Kingwood). As soon as I saw it on your Masamune build, I did my research and found myself fascinated and intrigued by it. So I recently got a beautiful double flute in the Native American style made from this wood and man is it beautiful and heavy! But what I wanted to say is that I initially appeared to have a sensitivity to it as well. Itchy throat, hot ears, etc. I got a very pure alcohol (95%) and cleaned it super well and have been playing it for about 2 weeks with no issues. But man, as you say, is it oily! Just having the alcohol touch the bare wood (inside the tubes), it would come out completely purple. What a beautiful wood! Not sure if this tip could help in your case, but perhaps cleaning/dipping the Koma with/in acetone frequently as you work on it to remove some of that oil content which is what is said to cause the sensitivity could help…? Anyways, good luck and can’t wait to see the final results!

1 Like

Sorry to hear about the allergic reaction :frowning: I hope you feel better now.

Love the different kinds of wood! And that gold wire… ! Can´t wait to see more of you creations, thank you for sharing the process!

1 Like

Thanks Pablo! It’s nice that koma are so small, and you can make a lot of them with little material, though they still take a good amount of time each to make well! It is also really interesting to hear just how much of a difference each one can have on tone, so I’m excited to try a number of styles as I go.

Actually besides the allergic reaction, I’ve paused on these current koma to address string height and action on Masamune myself. I think I got the angle right, though maybe a bit shallower than it should be, and as a result the action is higher than I’d like. However, this can be readily compensated with a shorter than standard 8mm koma. I’ve already got a 5mm and 6mm design in the works in CAD I will have printed in some performance SLA resin. Once I figure out the ideal height for my taste, I’ll rework my designs for this new height. I will definitely post the design files for the koma I do in CAD here as well.

Looking at the typical plastic koma for shamisen, I’m surprised they are so different compared to the standard bamboo ones, and given all the materials out there, there’s no reason why a well crafted plastic one has to sound worse! I have a few ideas on this front, both with advanced SLA resins as well as a material I am currently working with for my bachi that I am really excited to explore more.

Really awesome to hear about the camatillo native American style flute! You should definitely post some pictures of it, I’d love to see it! Native American style flutes lend themselves especially well to some beautiful wood combinations, and I’ve always wanted to make some out of really nice figured woods. I could definitely see it making an amazing flute wood, especially for native American style. The allergies are definitely a concern though, and the only way I could actually even attempt to properly apply finish to the fingerboard was wiping it down numerous times with acetone and applying a sealer coat immediately after. No matter how much you wipe it down though it never seems to stop!

I haven’t considered wiping down the koma while working on it, but that’s a great idea and I’ll give it a go!

1 Like

Thanks Stefanie! I’m still feeling the effects now and again, but it’s manageable for now. I was thinking of actually using 14k gold wire to be paired with the jet black Gabon ebony koma as well, but I’ll have to see if I can get the camatillo one sounding good first, since the gold makes it much heavier and really changes the tone. I think it would work great, but probably in the future a thinner piece should be used.

Besides woods, I’m also going to be exploring a number of other materials, and have a few custom height designs in the works that will be done in some advanced 3D printed SLA resins. I will also reveal more about this for my bachi build, but I am looking at another very exciting and unique plastic that I think could work incredibly for a real pro level bachi that I haven’t seen used for it before (though highly rated for guitar pics), which could also make for nice saddle and even full koma as well. So far it is really promising!

2 Likes

Hey! Thanks for your response. I hope all is well, and that you’ve gotten some interesting results with different Komas! That is interesting what you say about how much materials and shape/weight affect tone. I thought for sure the nut would be a big factor if comparing certain materials, but I didn’t expect the other factors to be so determining. I believe the Shamisen I got on eBay is a very nice one (Minyo style). The craftsmanship is just exquisite and it’s made in “tiger” Kouki. I got a ridiculous deal on it which almost turned out to be a bit of a “too good to be true”, since they didn’t reveal that it was badly cracked on one of the Sao joints. They gave me a partial refund which was nice and I got to repair it myself. Anyways, my point is that I do think the Koma on this instrument is made with plastic (I haven’t checked in a lot of detail. It looks like rosewood but feels like plastic, which makes me wonder). I have barely any experience with Shamisen, but… it sounds great to me! I should try replicating it with actual rosewood and compare.

The one detail that would concern me with a very short Koma is not getting ideal pressure to the top since you get less of an angle on the strings meeting the Koma from the Neo… I imagine you are aware of this and will do a great job as usual. Moving the Koma closer to the Neo would be one solution for that I guess. It’s one of a couple reasons I personally like the idea of a wooden Neo like Kyle’s last few builds. It might offer a bit more pressure on the Koma to the Hibiki? I could be wrong. Again… No real experience with this.

The Native flutes! There’s a builder named Brent Haines, founder of Woodsounds flutes. He makes incredible instruments and has used literally hundreds of woods, figured/burls being his favorites. I recommend you check out his website! I find it kind of addicting, just because of how beautiful these instruments look. I’ll share a few pics of my double flute. It’s really something! Also, I can’t believe how heavy Camatillo is! I also have a contrabass flute in African Blackwood… This Camatillo feels a lot heavier than the Blackwood, which surprised me. Here’s a few

pictures

1 Like

Pablo,

Really awesome to hear about that shamisen you got for a good deal and could repair yourself! Toguchi striping is definitely super nice to have, and I have seen some incredibly figured shamisen pictures here and there on the sao that just look amazing.

For koma, while I haven’t used too many yet, I am starting to suspect that weight and contact area have more affect on tone than material. For example, I also have another koma I got from a cheap used eBay shamisen, which looks like either a gidayu or jiuta koma, that is quite low profile but very wide with much more contact area with the skin, made from horn, with two small lead weighted dots underneath. Personally, I don’t really care for the tone of that koma, even though it looks like it is made from a nicer material. In that regard, while plastic might be looked down upon compared to traditional materials, I think if designed right with the right materials it could sound just as nice.

In terms of the koma height, for a really quick test I took my standard koma and turned it on its side just to see how the action felt. Since the koma is 6mm wide, it gave me an idea roughly how a 6mm high koma would feel. Interestingly, despite the fact that the koma was on the completely wrong way, it sounded almost completely identical! The lower action definitely felt much better to play as well, both from the picking and fingering sides. At least in my case, I don’t think a super short koma will affect tone or have too low pressure on the skin to be an issue. Hibiki is also stretched insanely tight, so it has a lot of room for response. I actually will be getting in my first 5mm and 6mm prototype koma hopefully this week, which I will post more info about shortly!

Mentioning the neo, one thing I have been interested in is how a wooden neo affects some of the tonal aspects vs. a traditional knotted neo. I’ve never used one or played with one in real life before, and probably Kyle could speak more on this, but just speculating based on the physics of it, since the neo creates one of two boundary conditions where the strings are attached, I expect it plays some part in the tone, albeit possibly to a small extent. While the majority of sound and vibrations should be transferred to the skins through the koma, I expect some component to continue traveling through past to the anchor point. For a traditional neo, this anchor point is a rope, and so any excess vibrations would probably greatly absorbed or dampened, whereas in a solid hard neo, I would expect them to be reflected with less losses. At least from what it sounds like, the wooden neo may increase the volume or brightness of the tone (which could be a good or bad thing depending on the rest of the shamisen build and the skins used).

And wow, I can’t believe you actually own one of the Woodsounds flutes from Brent Haines! I have definitely known about his flutes for years, and those were the ones I was literally thinking about in writing my prior response! His instruments are absolutely exquisite, and I think he makes the most incredible Native American style flutes I have ever seen. Interestingly, (and perhaps not a coincidence), he also started out as an engineer, and transitioned to instrument making. I have always believed that art and engineering are really just two sides of the same coin! If I ever made one for myself, I would definitely do it in his style of laminations, and it is a lot of fun just looking through the amazing flutes he has built. If I were to ever buy one, his would be the first I go to. That is an absolutely beautiful double flute, and I really love how the jet black ebony is paired with the camatillo, thanks a ton for sharing pictures of it! And I am sure that it sounds just as amazing as it looks! We have really got to meet up at some point with our instruments!

1 Like

Hi Michael!

I confirmed today that the Koma on my Shamisen is indeed made out of wood. Probably Kouki. It’s so light and so well made that and thin that I thought it was plastic, but upon closer look, I can see the actual grain when looking at light reflected on it. Also, just not as perfect as I thought where you see that hand tools were used. The Kouki on it is definitely not one of the coolest figured I think I’ve seen, even though it is gorgeous, but the craftsmanship is perfection. I consider my own builds to have come out very very good in craftsmanship, that is until I compare in detail to my Japanese Shamisen.

That’s great new on the test you did with you Koma turning it on its side! Kind of funny too… hehe… The things you say about the traditional vs wooden Neo make sense to me. If that’s the case, perhaps the traditional would make sense in many cases, since Shamisen is so loud in general… I think. The attack in particular is piercing.

Michael, I have shown pictures of Masamune to Brent Haines. He’s a big fan of your work! I have a few of his flutes, including a couple in Tasmanian Blackwood Burl and another one in Yellow Cedar Burl (and the big contrabass in A. Blackwood)… I practice some instruments way more than the flutes, but the flutes might be my favorite instruments for their beauty and ease of playing and feeling relaxed… So, I’m also a graphic designer/photographer/advertiser and have had the privilege of doing quite a bit of work for him, which is paid with flutes! I’m going to his place in Utah for a week in November to make some videos, including a video commercial.

Meeting would really be awesome! You are welcome to come by whenever you want. We just have to plan ahead a bit. I have a nice recording studio. We could make a cool video with a few of your instruments if you want, Masamune being the cherry on top.

1 Like

I forgot to ask: What do you mean by Woodsound’s “style of laminations”? I also forgot to respond in regards to the double flute… Yes, I agree that the jet black ebony looks great with the Camatillo as well as the white raven/diamond in faux ivory for the totems for a bit of drastic contrast. The ebony does look a bit like plastic though, unless looked in detail, which is not very appealing. But man, probably the coolest feature is the metal work. Pictures don’t give it justice since it’s in the movement that you get all the varying reflection off it based on light and surroundings. It is magical. The concept behind this double flute is a solar eclipse. Top flute portrays the sun having copper bands, the other one the moon with silver bands. The silver dots are the stars (ebony=space). They meet in the mouthpiece where the Eclipse happens. I’m working on a video showing/playing the flute. I can send you a link when it’s out if you’re interested in checking it out. Cheers!

1 Like

Pablo,

That’s pretty awesome that you have actually collaborated with Brent Haines, and have several Woodsounds flutes yourself! When you see him in November, let him know that I have been a huge fan of his flutes for a long time!

For my comment on laminations, I probably should have been more clear, referring specifically to his wood selection and the different woods and proportions he uses joining woods together. There are a number of flute makers who have very nice multi-wood flutes, but I think he takes it up a notch with his selection. The solar eclipse concept for your double flute is really awesome. I noticed the inlays, and thought they looked really nice and helped tie in a unique character to the whole look. Definitely send a link to the video of the flute when you get it all recorded!

And we should definitely coordinate something! That’s really awesome you have your own recording studio. I have dabbled a bit with a number of instruments myself over the years, and have a couple of native American style flutes as well (which actually was one of the first instruments I got into back in high school), though shamisen is still my all around favorite. I’d definitely love to see your instrument collection, as well as the shamisen you have been working on! I haven’t actually recorded Masamune yet either because I don’t have any recording stuff to get decent quality sound (and I really need to get better at playing too lol).

1 Like

The first set of custom 3D printed low-profile koma are finally arriving tomorrow, so I figured I would share what is to come! I used my standard 8mm high bamboo koma for a reference, and designed a 5mm and 6mm height koma to play around with lower string action, as well as test this material for making custom koma. All of the edges and tapers are very similar to a fully carved koma, though I had to adjust some points to be very slightly thicker to accommodate the min resolution tolerances for the SLA process. Below you can see the CAD renders of the 5mm and 6mm koma respectively. I did not model the notches for the strings, since that can be very easily filed in by hand.

The koma will be made from a very rigid, high strength performance SLA resin called Accura 48HTR. Below is a picture of what this particular resin print looks like (the part is a prototype housing for an ionic liquid electrospray thruster I designed and tested a while back.) There are also some rigid clear resins, though I think the lightly tinted look of this resin for koma would look more interesting.

If this material works out and it turns out to sound nice, then I will experiment with some other designs. In particular, I really want one of the susudake “fanged” style koma sold on Bachido. I will also probably make a standard 8mm height koma model and upload it here for others who are interested in getting their own made or playing with the design. Note that because the features are so thin, you won’t be able to use typical FDM printing. For SLA, you will also most likely need to go with a rigid, high performance engineering resin material to be strong enough.

1 Like